Guidas In The D&C – Calzones!
I have to tell you something and you’re not going to like it. Are you sitting down? Good, here goes. Pizza is a terrible takeout food. Or, more precisely, pizza delivered and eaten directly out of the box is a sad mistake. The box steams the pizza and does horrible things to crust. Now, the good news is that 10 minutes in your oven will fix that (better if you have a stone or a steel), but people don’t usually do that.
Look, neither you nor I are going to stop ordering pizza. But the best way to have pizza is at a good pizzeria, right out of the oven. Pizza is a baked good —primarily a crusty bread — and bread shouldn’t be steamed in a box.
But oh, a fine crust is a grand thing. And perhaps the highest expression of pizza-as-baked-good is the calzone. Guida’s menu describes the humble calzone as “dough with cheese and one filling inside,” but this does it no justice. Mark Guida’s crust is excellent: cracker-like on top, full of air pockets, brown-black on the bottom, chewy and flavorful. It’s almost like a sourdough (a good rise, I think). So when that gets made into a pocket and stuffed with high-quality ingredients, well … good things happen.